Spring Fling on the Savannah River
Savannah's Southern Charm is a Heady Blend of Old and New
The streets of Savannah come alive with possibility as warmer winds signal the end of its short Southern winter. Suddenly gardens are ablaze with azalea, dogwood and magnolia blossoms. Fragrant jasmine vines spill over walls of brick and wrought iron. Local festivals and cultural events play out against a backdrop of centuries-old architectural landmarks, announcing the arrival of spring—the best time of year to explore treasures past and present of this vibrant coastal town.
Founded in 1733 by James Edward Oglethorpe, Georgia's oldest city is a sprawling patchwork of neighborhoods laid out symmetrically around squares. This ward design has been lauded for its innovative approach to city planning, and is preserved within Savannah's National Historic Landmark District. Over 20 of the original squares remain—urban oases awaiting discovery, replete with historic buildings, monuments and fountains. A leisurely walk through Lafayette Square is a must, with its beautiful Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, the Hamilton-Turner House, now an inn, and the Andrew Low House, where Girl Scouts founder Juliet Low once resided.
A perfect way to attain total Old South immersion is to stay at an historic bed and breakfast, and the “Hostess City” has its share, with lodgings of all kinds and sizes interspersed throughout the downtown area. The Historic District's Jones Street—many say the South's prettiest—has a good representation of inns and the added bonus of unique shopping opportunities in the nearby Downtown Design District.
The circa-1856 Zeigler House Inn eases you back in time under a canopy of moss-draped live oaks. The stately Italianate mansion exudes charm: a bright entryway opens to an elegant, chandeliered parlor where heart pine floors and soft Oriental rugs set a tone of welcoming comfort. Seven beautifully decorated guest rooms, each with its own distinctive style, offer luxurious “sink-in” bedding and kitchenettes. Innkeeper Jackie Heinz stocks guestrooms with her own freshly baked quiches, muffins and other refined refreshments. She also happily supplies guests with maps and recommendations for seeing the sights that begin outside at her front door.
Savannah is a pedestrian-friendly town and setting out on foot in this centuries-old neighborhood is particularly rewarding. Strike out on Jones Street, taking your time as you pass elegant townhomes with lush, wrought-iron-gated gardens begging for a peek.
At the corner of Jones and Whitaker streets, a trendy lifestyle boutique called One Fish Two Fish,, pulls you back into the 21st century with unique contemporary furnishings and innovative accessories for both home and wardrobe. Owner Jennifer Beaufait Grayson opened shop in 1998, and along with next-door neighbor Circa Lighting owner Gale Singer, pioneered the creation of what is now the Downtown Design District. Other neighbors worthy of a look include Number Four Eleven and The Annex.
Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room is a stone's throw away, where folks line up for legendary super-sized Southern meals served family-style at community tables. Think fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, sweet potato pie.
Walk off lunch with a jaunt to Forsyth Park—30 acres of green space and meandering paths, a stunning fountain and a wonderful farmers market on Saturdays that features locally sourced vegetables and fruits, artisanal cheeses and breads, and an earthy, laid-back vibe.
Trolley tours are a great way to get an overview of the city's history and attractions, and the city's Chatham Area Transit (CAT) system offers free rides throughout the downtown area. Hop aboard and head across town to historic River Street—packed with casual restaurants, shops, art galleries and waterfront activities.
Hotel choices run the gamut from national brands to smaller boutiques: an option near the Savannah River area is the elegantly appointed 60-room Planters Inn, overlooking Reynolds Square and within walking distance of the Savannah College of Art and Design’s Trustees’ Theater, Telfair Museum of the Arts, Juliette Gordon Low House and City Market.
Beautiful Reynolds Square is also home to The Olde Pink House—one of the city's much-lauded eateries. Guests experience dining in a circa 1771 property resplendent with lavish chandeliers, antique fireplaces, heart pine flooring and thick crown molding. Try the casual bar for a relaxing lunch that starts with a jalapeno Margarita made with proprietary Herradura tequila custom blended for the restaurant in Mexico. If you're fortunate enough to sit at Rick Sebolt's table, the veteran server will guide you seamlessly through a menu featuring dishes such as a flavorful milk-based she crab soup, crunchy calamari served with apricot shallot sauce and a fried green tomato BLT salad that's been featured on Food Network's The Best Thing I Ever Ate.
Also near the port and rumored to have a resident ghost is the 17Hundred90 Inn and Restaurant. This antebellum property features a cozy dining and bar area wrapped in warm brick and beamed ceilings.
Savannah's culinary scene has attracted its share of celebrity chefs too. Hugh Acheson's The Florence showcases seasonal fare with elevated Italian flair, served in a repurposed ice factory with an open, industrial design and exposition kitchen. Seating is casual bistro style, and food offerings reflect the place's contemporary approach: an outstanding play on antipasti featuring housemade sausage, thin discs of panko-crusted eggplant and bright vinegary pickled cauliflower.
Broughton Street has established itself as a shopping destination over the last decade with upscale shops like The Paris Market, a two-story lifestyle emporium fueled by owner Paula Danyluk's global travels. Latte lovers can slip into a cozy banquette and enjoy a macaroon in Brocante, its European-style cafe.
The Savannah Music Festival is Georgia's largest musical arts event and one of the most distinctive cross-genre music festivals in the world. Indulge your senses and take in a performance or three as this celebration of the arts plays out in venues across the city from late March through early April.
The Botanical Garden is a must-see attraction in the spring and less than a half hour from downtown Savannah. Quiet paths bursting with color weave through almost two dozen lush sites planted with countless varieties of roses, camellias, azaleas, native plants, ferns—centered around a romantic gazebo and pond.
Beautiful Tybee Island is also a short ride away and a perfect getaway for an hour or a day. Leave civilization behind and connect with nature: walking the sandy shoreline with the possibility of spotting a pair of dolphins is exhilarating—whether at sunrise or sunset.
Exciting, eclectic, rejuvenating, Savannah is a special treasure awaiting discovery—in the springtime, and anytime.