Cookbook author Deborah Madison calls for green chiles such as poblanos for this dish, but a bit of research emboldened me to recommend subbing the Italian bullnose peppers in the July 28 Twenty Bag. Both are low on the Scoville heat scale—lots of flavor and not too spicy. What’s No.1, you ask? The world’s hottest pepper is the Carolina Reaper!

INGREDIENTS

2 long chiles

1 large wheat tortilla

soft fresh goat cheese

chopped cilantro

PREPARATION

Roast the chiles until charred, then drop into a covered bowl to steam 10 to 15 minutes (Molly Watson/ The Spruce Eats offers a valuable step-by-step on broiler-roasting chilis). Slip off the skins and pull out the seeds, then pull into strips with your fingers. Place the tortilla in a dry skillet over medium heat. As soon as the bottom is warm, flip it over. Put the chile on top, crumble the cheese over it, and add the cilantro. (You can add salsa to, if you like.) When the cheese starts to soften, slide the tortilla onto the counter, then fold it in half. Press down, wrap in a napkin, sit down, and enjoy.