A Charleston original, Hoppin’ John grew out of the Lowcountry’s Gullah culture, and is a centuries-old tradition at the January 1 table. Pair this simple but wildly satisfying Southern dish with spicy braised collard greens to start the New Year on the right foot.

I followed a recipe I found in the local newspaper from Piggly Wiggly supermarket for my first attempt at the dish back in the day, which I’ve tweaked to my own taste over the years: I omit the cheese and use just 1 cup of rice. When I have a bit of leftover holiday ham on hand, I toss bite-size pieces into the pot along with the peas.

I love the smokiness of the ham hocks so they’re my go-to protein for the stock. If I can find hog jowls they join the party as well—the pork brings good luck to the table; the peas, plenty of coins and the collards stacks of of green backs.

Can’t argue with that!

1 pound (or so) smoked ham hocks

1 onion, chopped

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

8 cups water

pinch crushed red pepper flakes

hot sauce to taste, I like Crystal

salt and pepper to taste

1 pound dry black-eyed peas, soaked 6 hours or overnight

1 1/2 cups long grain white rice

PREPARATION

Make a stock: place everything but the peas and rice in a large pot, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, partially covered, for an hour and a half, until richly flavored, and adjust the seasonings. Remove the ham hocks, cut meat from bones and return the meat to the pot. Add the black-eyed peas and cook until almost tender, about an hour. Add the rice and cook for another 20 minutes.