Courtesy of food journalist Mark Bittman

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound cut pasta, like ziti

2 tablespoons butter

30 fresh sage leaves

1 cup or more freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

PREPARATION

Bring a large pot of water to a boil; salt it. Cook pasta until it is tender, but not quite done.

Meanwhile, place butter in a skillet or saucepan large enough to hold the cooked pasta; turn heat to medium, and add sage. Cook until butter turns nut-brown and sage shrivels, then turn heat to a minimum.

When the pasta is just about done, scoop out a cup of the cooking water. Drain the pasta. Immediately add it to the butter-sage mixture, and raise heat to medium. Add 3/4 cup of the water, and stir; the mixture will be loose and a little soupy. Cook for about 30 seconds, or until some of the water is absorbed and the pasta is perfectly done.

Stir in cheese; the sauce will become creamy. Thin it with a little more water if necessary. Season liberally with pepper and salt to taste, and serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table if you like.

Yield: 4 servings.