Potatoes. Milk. Garlic. It doesn’t get much simpler than that. And the resulting deliciousness is comfort food at its best.

Introducing the recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Julia says “Although some authorities on le vrai gratin dauphinois would violently disagree, you may omit the cheese. If you do, add 2 more tablespoons of butter.”

Who would argue with a culinary master?. My daughter always made the dish sans the Swiss, with incredible results: no one ever asked “where’s the cheese?”

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds “boiling” potatoes, peeled

1 cup milk

A 6-cup flameproof baking dish, 2 inches deep

1 small clove mashed garlic

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 cup (4 ounces) grated Swiss cheese (optional)

4 tablespoons butter

PREPARATION

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Peel the potatoes and slice them 1/4 inch thick. Place in a basin of cold water. Drain when ready to use.

Rub the baking dish with the cut garlic. Smear the inside of the dish with a tablespoon of the bitter. Drain the potatoes and dry them with a towel. Spread half of them in the bottom of the dish. Divide over them half the salt, pepper, cheese and butter. Arrange the remaining potatoes over the first layer and season them. Spread on the rest of the cheese and divide the butter over it. Pour on the boiling milk. Set over heat and when simmering, set in upper third of preheated oven. Bake for 20 or 30 minutes or until potatoes are tender, milk has been absorbed and the top nicely browned.